Sunday 27 December 2009

Namibia - Girl

Nothing about our wedding was traditional: from venue to clothing, from proposal to engagement ring we defied the norm. The ring with which Col presented me was actually a joint decision to go to Namibia.

So, in November 2009, we spent three incredible weeks in what can only be described as one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Everything about the trip was awe inspiring (Col pointed out that it's probably the first time I've ever used the word 'awesome' in its correct sense).

We had been led to believe that the roads in Namibia were good enough for a two-wheel drive vehicle. They were, just. There were times we were both scared the car wouldn't make it: from bumpy, potholed, roads to sand dunes creeping across an already sandy track, we inched our way around Namibia, holding our breath at every new obstacle. Thankfully, we made it out with no punctures (60% get at least one), no scrapes and no breakdowns.

The highlight for me came on day two: a hot-air balloon over the desert at Sessriem. I don't think anyone could invent a more serene method of travel than this. Once we were all aboard the balloon shifted on the sand once or twice and suddenly we were off; first one metre, then ten, then one hundred and then, suddenly, we were 1200 metres off the ground and 2000 metres above sea level. Looking down on uninhabited land it was sometimes difficult to understand how high up we were but the mountains and sand dunes stretching to the sea (around 600km away) gave a hint. Sunrise from the balloon was simply magical, all was silent except for the roar of the gas and the occasional chatter of the group. All too soon we were back on the ground and it was time for a champagne breakfast before heading back to our beautiful lodge.

The next day was also something of a highlight (day two was a highlight among highlights!). We drove into the national park to see the sand dunes. Who'd have thought sand could be either so interesting or so beautiful? After a mandatory (and impressive) climb up Dune 45, we headed over to Dead Vlei. This involved leaving the car and paying a 4x4 to take us to the end of the road. We walked for over an hour to see both Big Daddy (world's biggest sand dune) and Dead Vlei, an ancient, dried up river bed. No words can begin to describe the beauty of the brilliant white ground, the yellow sands and the pure blue sky. Dotted across the scene were ancient, dead, trees. The sense of awe experienced in this place is unrivalled. We were both slightly nervous to be so alone (there was no one else there) in 40 degree heat in a place that could (maybe) fill with water in a flash flood. None-the-less, we walked across this vast plane towards the mirages at the far end, taking in the sheer size of everything around us. Sadly, we were brought back down to earth with a sharp shock as the 4x4 never bothered returning to pick us up. Stranded. After an hour of waiting we began to walk the 12km back to the car-park. Thankfully, after 45 minutes, a car drove passed and gave us a lift. We weren't mean to die in the Namibian desert!

Driving up the Skeleton Coast we stopped off to admire the stinking throng of seals at Cape Cross. An incredible hotel where the restaurant did not meet the standards set by the rooms. It didn't appear to matter what was on the menu, they'd serve whatever the hell they fancied! The Skeleton Coast park was one of the most deserted places I've ever visited – fun for a day or two. Another scary period when we decided we'd do our own walking safari to the coast. This walk, around 3hours return trip, was spent breathing fairly shallowly and constantly looking around for the famed desert lion and elephant. Thankfully we saw neither.

Etosha Park is famed for being one of the best game parks in the world and we weren't disappointed. We saw a male lion walk through a herd of zebra causing quite a panic amongst the stripy horses, we saw a family of lionesses and cubs have a hunting lesson on a flock of stupid guinea foul and we watched thousands of birds float on the wind together whilst giraffe, zebra and kudu drank at the watering hole below them. We watched hyenas provoke angry rhinos and we watched a bull elephant banish a teenage male elephant from the herd.

On our way to Windhoek we stopped off in Omaruru to visit one of Namibia's only vineyards. A small affair run by a lovely couple who offer tours and tastings. We toured, tasted and bought before heading to the capital and the airport. After three weeks of 40 degree heat the first rains fell on our way to the airport.

A magnificent holiday in a magnificent location with my magnificent husband. Could a girl be any more lucky?