Sunday 27 December 2009

Namibia - Girl

Nothing about our wedding was traditional: from venue to clothing, from proposal to engagement ring we defied the norm. The ring with which Col presented me was actually a joint decision to go to Namibia.

So, in November 2009, we spent three incredible weeks in what can only be described as one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Everything about the trip was awe inspiring (Col pointed out that it's probably the first time I've ever used the word 'awesome' in its correct sense).

We had been led to believe that the roads in Namibia were good enough for a two-wheel drive vehicle. They were, just. There were times we were both scared the car wouldn't make it: from bumpy, potholed, roads to sand dunes creeping across an already sandy track, we inched our way around Namibia, holding our breath at every new obstacle. Thankfully, we made it out with no punctures (60% get at least one), no scrapes and no breakdowns.

The highlight for me came on day two: a hot-air balloon over the desert at Sessriem. I don't think anyone could invent a more serene method of travel than this. Once we were all aboard the balloon shifted on the sand once or twice and suddenly we were off; first one metre, then ten, then one hundred and then, suddenly, we were 1200 metres off the ground and 2000 metres above sea level. Looking down on uninhabited land it was sometimes difficult to understand how high up we were but the mountains and sand dunes stretching to the sea (around 600km away) gave a hint. Sunrise from the balloon was simply magical, all was silent except for the roar of the gas and the occasional chatter of the group. All too soon we were back on the ground and it was time for a champagne breakfast before heading back to our beautiful lodge.

The next day was also something of a highlight (day two was a highlight among highlights!). We drove into the national park to see the sand dunes. Who'd have thought sand could be either so interesting or so beautiful? After a mandatory (and impressive) climb up Dune 45, we headed over to Dead Vlei. This involved leaving the car and paying a 4x4 to take us to the end of the road. We walked for over an hour to see both Big Daddy (world's biggest sand dune) and Dead Vlei, an ancient, dried up river bed. No words can begin to describe the beauty of the brilliant white ground, the yellow sands and the pure blue sky. Dotted across the scene were ancient, dead, trees. The sense of awe experienced in this place is unrivalled. We were both slightly nervous to be so alone (there was no one else there) in 40 degree heat in a place that could (maybe) fill with water in a flash flood. None-the-less, we walked across this vast plane towards the mirages at the far end, taking in the sheer size of everything around us. Sadly, we were brought back down to earth with a sharp shock as the 4x4 never bothered returning to pick us up. Stranded. After an hour of waiting we began to walk the 12km back to the car-park. Thankfully, after 45 minutes, a car drove passed and gave us a lift. We weren't mean to die in the Namibian desert!

Driving up the Skeleton Coast we stopped off to admire the stinking throng of seals at Cape Cross. An incredible hotel where the restaurant did not meet the standards set by the rooms. It didn't appear to matter what was on the menu, they'd serve whatever the hell they fancied! The Skeleton Coast park was one of the most deserted places I've ever visited – fun for a day or two. Another scary period when we decided we'd do our own walking safari to the coast. This walk, around 3hours return trip, was spent breathing fairly shallowly and constantly looking around for the famed desert lion and elephant. Thankfully we saw neither.

Etosha Park is famed for being one of the best game parks in the world and we weren't disappointed. We saw a male lion walk through a herd of zebra causing quite a panic amongst the stripy horses, we saw a family of lionesses and cubs have a hunting lesson on a flock of stupid guinea foul and we watched thousands of birds float on the wind together whilst giraffe, zebra and kudu drank at the watering hole below them. We watched hyenas provoke angry rhinos and we watched a bull elephant banish a teenage male elephant from the herd.

On our way to Windhoek we stopped off in Omaruru to visit one of Namibia's only vineyards. A small affair run by a lovely couple who offer tours and tastings. We toured, tasted and bought before heading to the capital and the airport. After three weeks of 40 degree heat the first rains fell on our way to the airport.

A magnificent holiday in a magnificent location with my magnificent husband. Could a girl be any more lucky?

Wednesday 14 October 2009

K+D's wedding and Rwandan guest - boy

Bit late for this entry and a long time seems to have passed now. Back then the UK was sunny and S France was shrouded in its seasonal one month downpour. Now the roles have most certainly reversed.

In the run up to our brief sejour Cassie had a colleague over from Rwanda. It's always interesting to hear what outsiders have to say about Europe (and the West in general) never having been and was surprised at the gusto our guest tackled a wide range of foods - with experimentation that even I would (possibly) balk at, such as buttered lettuce leaf (although that's essentially what I'm doing when I put it in a sandwich) and not shying away from more adventurous mixtures like a brie sandwich with Swiss roll. Of all the foods we tried, highest marks went to that regular British staple "the good 'ole fashioned Chinese", especially the number 52.

We watched Pelham 123 (not the most exciting remake) and he mentioned that when watching films like these he thought that the places portrayed in them, like New York or London were essentially fake, just mock-ups, where in reality these cities didn't have (or couldn't have) the quantity of roads, pavements, the metro system, buildings and general infrastructure that they showed on film. Well, I thought it was interesting anyway.

S France beckoned and on landing the first port of call was a restaurant to partake in that most French of national pastimes, the two hour lunch (how I miss it). Coincidentally, a couple of friends from Dubai (coming for the wedding too) were on the same flight, so the four of us headed to Albi (historic home of the Cathars - a people whose competing religion the crusaders eventually wiped out) for beer, wine and a fantastic lunch.

That pretty much set the scene for the whole stay; great wine and fantastic food (and a portion of guilt since most of the tastiest food came from Geese, Ducks or Calves having a truly unpleasant time for our pleasure).

The village of Puycelsi, where K's parents live is an idyllic little town of a few hundred people atop a hill with a couple of B+Bs and a small town hall. On the day of the official ceremony, I wouldn't be surprised if all the guests doubled the population for that day.

The wedding party was the night before and was the main event, where speeches were held, recitations were delivered and vows expressed in an emotional manner. The Chateau where the celebrations were held took 50 years to refurbish. It housed a zealous guide, who incidentally was the son of the owner, a painter that covered every inch of chateau space with every crayon drawing he did in his life, most of which appeared to be nudity expressed as an obsession. He also painted, over the past 50 years, many of the chateau walls and ceilings with painstakingly detailed pictures, as close to the original as possible so we’re told, with original dyes and egg whites, or something like that - I might have glazed over at that point. Oh, and it took approximately 50 years, his son managed to point out to us on our guided tour. I had the pleasure of this man's presence at the dinner table but with previous conversations being "50 ans monsieur!" et "pas de boisson ici monsieur!" I felt I held back with the informal chit chat. He seemed a bit moody and humourless but perked up a bit when Cass toasted “Death to the Queen”.

The wedding party was followed by some sleepy drinking into the early hours of the morning. Always nice when that happens.

Thursday 24 September 2009

Puycelsi - girl

My best friends, Kate and Deran, got married last weekend in Southern France. We made a long weekend of it and had a fantastic time.
On the plane on Thursday morning we bumped into Alex and Henry, two friends from university who were also heading to the wedding. In two cars we drove to Albi and instead of visiting one of Europe's only fortified cathedrals, we had lunch, and wine. Eventually we left and headed to Puycelsi for the 'wedding welcome drinks' - more drinking. The same four of us snuck off for a great dining experience (with wine) where we ate our own body weight in foie gras and other delicious items. Plenty of wine ensured that the slightly stilted atmosphere in the restaurant didn't hinder our fun.
The next morning we were joined by Ben, an American friend of Deran. We headed up to Cordes en Ciel for more drinking and scenic views. This time the rain and the wine almost made us forget to turn back, get ready and head to the venue for part one of the wedding.
Chateau de Mauriac but a beautiful building, definitely not a castle in my book, whatever it might be called. The ceremony was held in the wine cellar (I think) - highlights were Alex reading a possibly unsuitable John Donne poem and someone else reading the Velveteen Rabbit. Following this those who wanted to take a tour of the place could. I opted not to although in retrospect, perhaps I should have since it sounded hilarious. Lots of naked paintings all over the place. Very French. Owners extremely proud and also seemed to hate the farmer who had kept his livestock in the building before they bought the place, which caused much hilarity amongst returning tour-ees.
Supper was pleasant, best wedding food I've had but had a strange man on our table. No sense of humour, only cracked one smile all night - when I offered the toast, 'down with the queen, up the republic'. Poor Col had to sit next to this guy. Dancing was followed by drinking back at the hotel (Jack, his sister and I managed to liberate enough booze from the party to ensure we could drink until 0430. well done us) before we all passed out. Alex wanted to swim in the pool but luckily fell asleep before he could realise the dream. Henry was definitely the object of Jack's sister's attentions.
A heavy hangover on Saturday meant we only managed a trip to a local vignoble for wine tasting and buying before lunch and part two of the wedding - the civil ceremony. This was followed by a party with far more booze and not much food - always a dangerous combination. Every time I looked around, Col and Henry were off giggling in a corner somewhere. Again, dancing, boozing and thankfully, at midnight, Deran produced some food, which was demolished almost immediately.
Sunday we went to a small village to check out their market - dull and wet - before driving, the long way round, to Carcassonne. Entirely my fault we drove the long way although I do hold that given there were three others, they could have looked at the map too. Quick march around the old city, which I thought was fairly disappointing and touristy before supper. Henry and Alex took their leave and headed back to Puycelsi, the quick way while Col and I spent the evening speaking French together and wandering around the New City. We hung around, saw some real castles, some caves, ate more good food and eventually arrived home on Tuesday night.
Seeing the Kate and Deran so happy was just wonderful, hearing their vows and knowing that a great match was made just topped off a great trip to a stunning part of the country.

Rwandan visitor - girl

William, an old friend and colleague, from Rwanda has just left after two weeks in the UK. Watching him experience London was almost as fascinating as it was for him to experience the city. From struggling with escalators and trains to mastering chopsticks, from experiencing 3-D films to shopping in Harrods, everything was new and exciting.
I had sort of expected William to experience culture shock akin to that experienced by Brits in Rwanda - total melt-down at the entirely different world. He didn't, at least not on the surface. He took everything in his stride, asked questions, experienced and enjoyed everything, except for broccoli which was experienced but not enjoyed!
We tried as many foods as we could in a short time - xmas pudding, sushi, British green veg, burgers and milkshakes (GBK and MacD's to give the full range), Chinese food, Italian food, Nando's, cheeses, fish and some hilarious combinations.
We saw everything: parliament, Trafalgar Sq, Leicester Sq, Picadilly Circus, the Thames, South Bank, we took a ride on the London Eye, Natural History Museum, Science Museum, Harrods, everything we could think of to show him our marvellous city.
Personally I think I found taking him to the museums the most rewarding. Being a bright guy he was quick to pick up on everything and could even acknowledge that there might be something in this 'dinosaur thing' and that what he was learning did appear to contravene his views on creation. We didn't push the issue.
Seeing his interest and excitement and hearing him revel in our world was incredible. Knowing he's gone home with a new fascination for the world and a curiosity for everything (his words) is something special. I hope he'll use some of what he saw in my office in his own office and that he'll help the kids from SACCA question the world in the way he saw us doing.

Tuesday 8 September 2009

Bro-law wedding - boy

The Belgian wedding was a very pleasant affair, wedding Leo (Cassie's brother, my brother in law) to Sarah (and vice versa of course).

On Friday after work we had a relatively painless Eurostar and SNCB journey to Liege, a city (if Liege can be considered large enough to be a city) on the right side of Belgium (if Belgium can be considered large enough to have sides).

We didn't get to experience much of Liege since (a) the wedding was on a farm a few k away and (b) we arrived after 10pm Friday night, which is when Liege fluffs up its pillows and goes to sleep, along with its B+Bs apparently, including ours. Fortunately, we were pre-warned about this so arrangements were made for Sarah’s friend (who was staying there too) to let us in so the owner could get her beauty sleep in order for her to be fresh and revitalised for what must have been a challenging morning preparing our breakfast of bread and cheese.

There was some shuttling around Liege on the Saturday before the main event; a family gathering of quiche and wine at Sarah’s parent’s house, a ceremony at the town hall and possibly other places.

At the town hall there was the customary queuing of the couple and guests. I think there were a couple of weddings in front of us and one behind (the one behind had a huge white limo too, urgh, very tacky, who gets a limo for their wedding? probably the sort of people who get married in Vegas). Once in the ceremony room there was some distinct traces of Belgian humour in the clerks choice of music, but the chap who officiated did well to recite what must be tired lines in a non-mechanical way and the clerks to his left and right did some admirable smiling, nodding and general paper shuffling. Friends and family cried, Leo and Sarah beamed.

The main ceremony (the one that really mattered) took place on the farm where both sets of parents spoke and Leo and Sarah made their vows. Not being a very emotional person I feel a little under qualified to comment, but I could tell from the faltering tones and expressions that it was a sincere moment of positive reflections.

And the rest of the evening, well what wedding wouldn’t be complete without great food and wine, more speeches (this time from the siblings and best people), good company, pots of melted cheese, a ton of dessert, an especially nice blonde beer and lots of dancing. As well as the obligatory wondering around the village in the dead of night, peering at house numbers and trying keys in random doors to find our night's abode.

A superb breakfast (which I suspect we still haven't paid for - need to sort that out) and afternoon BBQ finished off the festivities perfectly. All in all, a fun weekend.

Saturday 5 September 2009

Brother's wedding - girl

My baby brother got married last weekend. How else can I say it? I guess he's no longer my baby brother. I have to admit that he's all grown up and he's no longer entirely mine. I have to share him with another girl. Of course, he hasn't been 'mine' for years and that's how it should be but this was really a watershed. I love my brother and I'm thrilled he's found his half orange but it feels a bit weird in a totally nonsensical, non logical way.
Col and I met up at St Pancras and hung out in the lounge until our train arrived. I do love the lounge - so much fun to eat and drink for free.
The 'hotel' that wasn't a hotel was ok. Not loving the foam bed or the non insulating walls. Find it hilarious that the hotel owner claimed she didn't want us to turn up late because she has to get up early to prepare breakfast: breakfast was bread and cheese. I'd love to know what she 'prepared'.
The town hall service was lovely. I loved sitting at the front with Leo (I was his witness). It really meant a lot that he wanted me there with him and I felt so much a part of his/their day. After the service we moved to the Ferme des Sources for the real ceremony and the party. Their vows to each other were lovely and really showed me how grown up my baby brother is. I wonder if other people find the marriage of a younger sibling quite so surreal. Great party although I was pretty nervous about my speech so didn't eat or drink much until almost the end of the meal.
Speeches were entertaining, mainly because Belgian tradition is to wax lyrical about the couple while the British tradition is to lovingly poke fun. Looked a bit lopsided. I am entirely certain that Leo knows how much I love him and how happy I am to see him happy. I cried a lot this weekend, the first time being when we apologised to each other for arguing on the phone in the build up to the wedding. The last thing I ever want to do is upset him.
We danced until 3am. I was sorry our parents left early, think it made it look like the party was more about her parents than our parents but it was their call.
Was so glad that we had Monday to relax before heading back to work. I loved seeing my brother so happy and loved seeing his friends again, they're such a great group of people.

Tuesday 25 August 2009

Dentist - girl

Col went to the dentist last week to have a tooth removed. He didn't want me to go with him. I was a bit relieved since last time I did the 'right thing' and went with him, I had to leave the room when the crunching sound got too much.
However, when he hadn't returned almost two hours later I was a bit concerned. Turned out they were busy working out whether a hole between his mouth and nose was a bad thing or not.
Given that Col hates the dentist more than anything and I'd bullied him into going I felt quite bad for him. Thank goodness he's one of the most resonable people I know and so didn't blame me for any of this mess.
It's now a week later and his hole has basically cleared up. I only made one or two jokes about oral fistuala, mainly because I imagine real fistula to be one of the worst things ever and therefore not joking material - there's not much I consider off limits so I sort of surprised myself there.
Col being Col, there was a lot of itnernet research into 'the hole'. We now know everything there is to know about sinus communications - useful. I just hope this hasn't put him off the dentist forever.

Saturday 22 August 2009

dentist - boy

Sinus communication. Oral fistula. These are words I don't expect to hear when I have a tooth pulled. However, as I understand it now, it does happen from time to time (the tooth's root uncovers a passageway into my sinus and out my nose) and it means blowing my nose, sneezing with my mouth closed, using a straw or any other activity which shoves air from my nose to mouth or vice versa is a bad idea for 2-3 weeks (shit).

I would have liked to have been prepared.

I have to write notes everywhere I go since most of these actions I do without thinking. I was unaware previously how frequently I equalise the pressure in my ears, which now only makes me whistle and blow gum blood into my nose.

This will probably effect my decision of whether or not I'll have a root canal and crown. Have been looking for the statistics for a rate of success are not easy to find for the UK . Found some for the US which are not impressive and our health care is in the dark ages compared to theirs.

Sunday 16 August 2009

boy

Before 7am our general plan before 2010 was for Cassie to find work in an African country (though not a failed or kleptocratic state, which already reduces our options significantly) and then we would stop work and go. After 8am we’ve included an interim period of travel in the mix and a definite date for our mutual end of work.

This is all positive since I’ve wanted to do a longish trip for a while and I assumed the logistics of finding a development job in Cassie’s world was too tough after a break such as this.

So it’s, India, Nepal, Tibet, China, North Korea and back (via Tokyo). I’m particularly keen on having the North Korea experience, not that I love the thought of propping up KJI’s necrocratic utopia with my hard earned funds, but I’ve just read a travellers account and can’t let go. Always wanted to see China and Tibet, Cassie wanted to see India and Nepal just happens to be sandwiched between the two.

Just flat stuff and storage to be sorted, but that’s just details.

Sleepy Decisions - girl

We've been chatting about various things we want to do and see recently but this morning we woke up and for some reason began to talk far more seriously. I'd imagine it has something to do with a couple of friends having booked a Cape Town to Cairo trip for early next year.
It was almost the same as our decision to get married - we were discussing trip ideas more and more seriously and then we stopped, looked at each other and one of us said, 'are we really doing this?' and that was it, we're doing it.
What is it? Well, nothing's set in stone but we plan to take three months to travel parts of northern India, trek in Nepal, hit Tibet, take the world's highest train from Lhasa to somewhere in China, hang out there for a bit before taking an organised tour to N Korea (Colin's recently got in to this idea) and a final stop in Japan. Cool huh?
I'm a bit concerned about N Korea but Col really wants to go and who am I to refuse him anything? As long as we're as ethical about our travelling as possible elsewhere then I'm happy - we've already talked about eco-travel and hooking up with local NGOs to learn about problems in the countries we're seeing.
Col's already been to India a couple of times and I've spent a summer in China but we're both happy to go again and I'm sure we'll see plenty of new things and share new experiences. Thank goodness we're both pretty laid back travellers since my parents would be devastated if we got a divorce!
Of course, the main things right now are: sorting out our flat and not letting this amazing trip overshadow trips to France, the Netherlands and Namibia this year.

It begins

We've been married for seven months and this morning, Sunday 16th August, we decided that it was probably time we went travelling. We thought that it might be interesting to blog together - we'll share experiences and emotions separately but on the same blog. Male and female views of the same events. Wonder what it will show about us.
First off, introductions: we are Colin Pearse and Cassie Williams. We met in Rwanda in 2005, moved to Ethiopia together in early 2006 and back to the UK in late 2006. In Jan 2009 we got married in Vegas, Elvis style.
Cassie: I'm a 29 year old British girl. I work in development and travel a great deal to the fSU and SSA for work. I love what I do as I passionately believe in trying to make the world a more equal place (sounds soft but I'm not!). My interests include travelling, languages and reading. I'm currently training for a 1/2 marathon to raise funds for SACCA, a Rwandan street kids organisation with whom I used to work.
Colin: I'm 39 and British. I am a Unix engineer but really I only work to feed my love of travel and life. I lived outside of the UK for a long time before coming home in 2006 - France, Belgium, Luxumburg, Rwanda and Ethiopia. My interests include reading, playing the guitar and travelling.