Our final destination in Japan, sadly. What a wonderful country.
With just one day left on our rail passes, we spent our first day in Osaka actually in Nara, another city renowned for its beauty. It rained. The temples were interesting and I'm glad we went but it wasn't a highlight of my trip (although watching an extremely tame deer steal a map from a tourist's hand was quite amusing).
Osaka is famed for its neon lights, supposed to out-neon Tokyo. They were pretty cool and we soon found the lights pulling us in to a couple of bars upon arrival. Rain, bar, beers, plum wine, umbrellas: somehow this combination led to a small row between C and me. Yup, right there in the middle of Osaka in the rain at 11pm we managed to have a row. Good stuff. No idea what it was about now but I know it wasn't much fun. Thankfully everything's back to normal now.
Having eaten almost nothing but raw fish for three weeks we felt it might be polite to go and check out the aquarium, or as I now call it, 'the sushi farm'. We went straight from peering at delicious fishies to eating them, right off a conveyor belt. Yummy.
Our final destination was the 'floating garden', an observation deck 43 stories up with incredible views over a beautiful city. So much better than Tokyo's effort at observation decks. We braved the bitterly cold winds to spend quite a long time outside watching dusk fall before heading home for our last supermarket meal in Japan.
And then it was time to leave this incredible place where every corner yields something new and delicious, where every open door seems to reveal another slot machine house and where everything feels accessible and inaccessible at the same time. I definitely leave wanting more. 
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